Hidden Oasis in Palm Springs Villa Royale is one of many small, retro hotels, nestled in the heart of South Palm Springs... hidden behind hedges... in quiet neighborhoods. Don and I spent one night, last January. We didn't just stumble across the place while traveling. And we didn't discover it on the internet. It was a postcard, that inspired our stay. This Lured Us This is the postcard that arrived in our mailbox, in April 2023. Our son and daughter-in-law sent it. They know how much we love a vintage motel! They raved about their stay and shared photos, with colorful bougainvilleas and luxurious patios. Their images definitely looked more boutique hotel, than motel! Greetings From Liz It took us less than a year, to work a Palm Springs visit into a road trip! We arrived on a gorgeous sunny day in January. We turned down South Indian Trail and parked along the hotel's decorated wall. Liz Taylor gazed off thoughtfully as we passed. Entrance We stepped through the open doors, into a courtyard with a bubbling fountain. Two formal lions greeted. A carved bench invited us to sit a spell. No thanks! We headed for the office. Lovely Lobby The cozy lobby felt welcoming. There were doors open at both ends, allowing the spring-like air to flow through. There were wood ceiling beams above and brick floors beneath... ...and colorful walls, furniture and art, in between! The photographic art was impressive. Don't forget to put on the glove, before you flip through the gigantic book of photographs! Pleasant Staff I half expected a snooty staff. After all, we were at an Adults Only Resort in Southern California! But we were checked in by a cheery young woman who offered us welcome drinks. We decided against tequila shots and both chose a glass of Cava. Spanish sparkling wine, seemed to fit the hotel's Spanish Revival Style. We left the lobby's cozy fireplace and headed out with drinks. 70 degrees in January! Villa Royale, Since 1947 We exited the lobby office, to this dreamy area. I spotted the pool we'd seen in the postcard. Sadly, there's no longer a diving board. I was unable to recreate the glam diving board pose! It was fun to imagine this small hotel when it first welcomed guests. VR opened during a period of development in the Palm Springs area, following WWII. California Ranch Style Structures Evelyn Pell built this little retreat, back when there were mostly larger guest ranches in the area. Supposedly the name "Villa Royale" was chosen to match the first letters of Ms. Pell's kids. Valorie & Richard. We passed the homey looking units with porches, overlooking the pool. We headed towards the second courtyard area. The Second Courtyard The pathway took us to a courtyard, surrounded by more guest rooms, looking out towards a fountain. There was a generous collection of Electra Bikes, which guests could use for free. This section of Villa Royale, was originally a separate motel, built in 1950. (Indian Trail Villa.. I believe). Villa Royale incorporated the motel, in 1986. JFK and Others We noticed quite a few celebrity faces looking out from the walls, as we wandered the grounds. Numerous artists have contributed incredible works of art to the Villa. Many feature some well-known faces, from the '50s and '60s. I'm sure JFK wasn't one of the famous folks who stayed at VR, during the mid-century years. But other Hollywood celebs often visited Villa Royale and nearby lodges. 2-Hour Rule We found Audrey Hepburn in one of the lounge areas. (or at least her image) There's no record of her being a guest here, but Mickey Rooney stayed frequently. I know. Not quite as impressive. Villa Royale's location lured many celebs, back in the day. Hollywood directors, screenwriters and actors, enjoyed getaways to Palm Springs, because of the studios' strict 2-Hour Rule. Screen stars who were under contract with film studios, were required to stay within a 2-hour range of Hollywood. The Third Courtyard After walking past the bikes and fountain, Don and I stepped into the coziest of all the VR courtyards. My opinion! In the late '50s, this cluster of units belonged to a separate motel. So the Villa Royale Resort is actually made up of a few unique vintage lodges. The "Capri Rooms" surrounding this small pool, seemed the most private. They also were the cheapest! This was the pool view from our room. Cheers to Capri Room! We were not dressed for the pool when we reached our room, but we wanted to sit with our Cava, before grabbing our bags. There are 38 rooms/suites at Villa Royale. Ours was not the grandest, but I loved our location at the end of a u-shaped arrangement of units. We lounged a bit before heading in. Room 39 We couldn't have been more pleased. We'd expected a hip, but tiny room, with a queen bed. The website recommended Capri Rooms, for single travelers or guests staying a short while. That description sounded like a warning! No worries for us. We just wanted a room under $200. But the room felt very comfortable! We had a king, not a queen! Were we upgraded? The mattress, linens and pillows were absolutely heavenly, Art Some of the more luxurious rooms had large pieces of art, featuring the faces of celebrities, like Clark Gable and David Niven. No stars in our room, but we had a curious, black & white geometric image on one wall. Above our bed was an image of a graceful, floating-figure. Cocktail Parlor I was impressed with the classy cabinet, filled with interesting liquor and snack selections. We didn't make use of the honor bar, but we enjoyed cups of Nespresso and we used the cut glassware, later. Actually it was plastic! Great for the pool deck! Small But Open Our corner room allowed us to enjoy a nice flow of fresh air. The raised ceiling with white painted beams, made the room feel much larger. For a while the open doors offered up some lovely jazz music, from speakers near the pool. We had another music option, with the "Toshiba Bluetooth Box", on the table. It looked like a radio we might have seen in our room, if we'd visited 70 years earlier! Once again, being the last room was a bonus! It gave us a little private area just outside the double doors. Bathroom The small bathroom was a reminder of our hotel's mid-century roots. But the sleek geometric tile, plush towels and Lather bath products, felt fresh and updated. The robes (not pictured) were fabulous! The fabric with a fun black & white design, was comfy and light! How I hate feeling weighted down by 30 pounds of terrycloth. Exploring Before Dinner After checking out the room, there wasn't much time before our dinner reservations. I dashed off to explore! Here and There There were cozy cabanas, near the main pool. Lots of skinny palms, towering above the tile roofs. And views of the San Jacinto Mountains! Staying Warm The temps were cooling, but there were cozy nooks with fireplaces and heaters! I recognized the framed image above the table! The postcard again! There were other warm and decorated places to sit. I found a flickering fire pit, surrounded by a desert garden. The mountain view was pretty... but no place to sit and enjoy it. Rooftop I was excited to find a metal staircase next to the lobby building. Directly above, was a rooftop lounge with seating that allowed guests to relax with a mountain view. Or, a view of the main pool, umbrellas and red tile! Full Moon After dinner the pool scene was more dramatic! I wish my camera had captured this better. The round moon, looks like a triangle! Quiet on the Pool Deck This little circular sitting area was my favorite spot. It was occupied when we first arrived. Before long all the umbrellas were down and the chairs were empty. I was curious about the pathway, heading back behind the chairs. Del Rey Restaurant I did some snooping and found the entrance to the restaurant. The patio was being prepped for the evening's monthly paella feast! The colorful tablecloths and hanging flags were festive. The gigantic paella pan was empty, but not for long. Further Back I wandered further back and found more lush landscape. A sign said "Hummingbird Garden". I followed the winding path that led to a patio with a Jacuzzi. Every corner of the property seemed peaceful and calm. I knew it was a Thursday in January, but I didn't expect an "Adults Only" resort to be so zen! Perfect! Almost 5! It was nearly 5:00 by the time I headed back to our little oasis. You can see Don sitting out near our room. We had it to ourselves. 45 minutes later, the lighting and colors changed. The palms were just silhouettes. We had just enough time for a Margarita, before dinner. "Noche De Paella" It was dark by the time we headed to the Del Rey's, Night of Paella celebration. The patio was filled with guests, drinking champagne and nibbling hors d'oeuvres. Guess we didn't get the memo! Evidently there were a lot of locals and regular guests, who knew to arrive early for pre-dinner mingling. Welcoming Speech Before being seated, we were given a welcoming talk. By some snappy dressers, I might add. This was Del Rey's 10th Paella Night. Our host laughed about some of their past issues. The very first paella night, involved a stolen paella pan problem. Another time, the paella pan caught on fire. Seating Soon guests were guided to their assigned seats. Don and I followed our hostess past the cozy patio tables, lit by Moroccan light fixtures... and heaters. We headed in the side door and followed the young woman into the dimly lit restaurant. Quite a swanky bar, with wood ceiling and retro, buttoned-bucket stools! Suddenly we were seated at a romantic table for 2, just steps from the bar. We had a nice view of the fireplace... a safe distance from the golden lion peering down from the wall. The colorful tigers looked less friendly, in the Gucci tiger leaf print wallpaper, behind Don. Our spot really was perfect. Don could watch the busy bartenders. I could keep an eye out another door, where the paella was being prepared for serving. The fire glowed nearby and the classy art, (on the tan velvet wall) totally delighted me. 5 Courses While we waited for the first course to begin, we nibbled on a bowl of crunchy corn-nuts. Then a miniature cutting board arrived, with 2 lucious dates! (with queso, bacon and almonds!) Next, an amazing salad with pears, pecans, apples and blue cheese. Then chicken empanadas! At the end we barely had room for churros and chocolate sauce! Paella de Mariscos! For our main course, we were invited outside to have our plates filled with Chef Alex Lopez's, Paella de Mariscos! I wish I'd seen the whole dish, before any was served! Our colorful plates displayed the food well! Saffron Stock, Chorizo, Shrimp,Mussels, Clams, Snap Peas, Haricot Verts! Night at the Villa I was glad to have a shawl as we wandered the grounds after dinner. The air was chilly by 9. We passed the main pool and then arrived at ours. All was quiet, on a full moon night! Morning Don and I had a long drive on Friday, so we were up before 7. The sun was warming the San Jacinto Mountains. Umbrellas were up! We hated to leave. We got the car packed up and headed for the breakfast buffet, that opened at 8. I spotted more open umbrellas inviting us! How could we leave without one jump in the pool? Inviting Set Up We arrived with plans to grab coffee and food, to take in the car. The little set-up was so classy, there were no easy to-go options! China and cloth napkins! How do we do this? Luckily I had some baggies. Don made a bagel sandwich with salmon and cream cheese. I grabbed skewers with sausage and cheese. It wasn't easy turning down the Mimosa Cart! We were able to get some coffee to-go in paper cups! We waved good-bye to Liz Taylor as we drove off! What's Notable? We have to thank Scott and Chali for inspiring our stay, with a postcard! It was even better than we hoped for. We got to thank them in person when we arrived in Sacramento after a day's drive! I loved our perfect little Room 39! It brought back memories of mid-century motels I recall from childhood days, in Florida. There was a nostalgic feel to the simple pools, surrounded by lounge chairs and palms. I will never forget the snazzy feel of the interior spaces and the artsy-glam, open-air sitting areas! The staff (as well the few guests we greeted) seemed relaxed and welcoming. I hope it's always like this, because Don and I both agree we want to return.
Reminder to Self: Next time stay more than one night. Make sure to pack a flowered swim cap!
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Lodge on the Desert There were dramatic skies when Don and I arrived in Tucson, last January. The rustling palms and dark clouds were ominous, but a sudden glow of sun, made the entrance to the old resort looked bright and welcoming. In fact it looked new. The Old Resort Actually, Lodge on the Desert is nearly 90 years old. I found this photo displayed with others, inside the lobby. It shows the modest lodge in earlier years. The "Lodge" (the hotel's name is a mouthful!) began as a private residence in 1931. The owners expanded their 4-bedroom property and began welcoming guests to their desert oasis, in 1936. New Lobby The lobby and staff was very welcoming, but our room wasn't ready. No problem. I studied old photos and news clippings. Staff member Caitlyn was eager to share about the hotel's history. She said the old lodge almost became a strip mall a couple decades ago. Luckily the property was rescued from demolition in 1997! Massive renovations and additions made the lodge lovely again. 1950's The lodge began with only 7 guest rooms. By the fifties, there were many more rooms. Guests could swim or play pingpong... or just relax on a chaise lounge with a view of the Santa Catalina Mountains. By the 1950's the hotel had become popular with filmmakers and stars. Many classic western films were shot in the Tucson area. The people involved in them, sometimes ended up at Lodge on the Desert. Filming in 1915 I wish I had photos of some of those celebrity guests. The Lodge website mentions John Wayne, Jimmy Stewart and Paul Newman. My grandmother wasn't on that list, but I have a photo of her when she was in a film, shot in Tucson. Filmmaking was happening in Tucson, as early as 1915. That's when my grandmother (age 10) played the part of a child, who was hit by a car. She ran home with a 5 dollar gold piece for her small part. The Pool in 2023 In 2008, 69 new rooms were added, along with this contemporary pool. Our stay was too short! I regret that we didn't at least make time for the hot tub! Cactus Garden After we got our room key, we wandered the grounds. Today the property has expanded to 5 acres and it was easy to get lost. I have no clue how many different kinds of cactus we spotted. I don't know about wild life. Desert snakes? I only saw a metal donkey. The garden was so lovely, with so many varied shapes and shades of green. Comparing! We arrived at the Lodge, after an afternoon at Saguaro National Park. It's hard to compete with that park's amazing desert landscape! But the lodge grounds competed well. They were appealing in a totally different way. The brick-lined path was neat and tidy after the dusty park. Our luggage rumbled along easily. The Buildings The shapes of the buildings were as varied as the cactus. Well, actually the building shapes were mostly straight lines, but the structures were all different. The levels and arrangements were unique. It reminded me of building a village with wooden blocks. Which is Old? I knew that the original stucco buildings went back to the 1930s. I knew the new buildings had been added over the decades. But honestly, it was hard to tell which buildings were original. They did a great job with the additions. Old Pueblo I assume the original structures were all single level. I tried to find something that matched this old postcard. Almost. But this was actually a second story deck and guest room. I loved the mountains in the distance. This view made it feel like we were still out in the middle of nowhere. But Tucson has actually grown up around the 5-acre property. Casita #239 I skipped Expedia and booked a Casita Room by phoning the hotel. The website was a little confusing and I wanted to be sure we got a room in one of the original buildings. Our room was on the second level, overlooking the cactus gardens. Our 2 windows offered a good view of the village-like property. There was something so soothing about the earthy colors! Fireside Casita Double Queen When I phoned to book, I spoke with Caitlyn and told her I was hoping for one of the historic rooms, with beamed ceiling and fireplace. Lucky for us, the vintage Casita Rooms were cheaper than the recently renovated luxury rooms. (This one was $222. on a weekend.) Caitlyn steered me towards a vintage double queen room that had beams and fireplace. Guest Ranch Rooms The 2 queen beds hardly took up any space in the room. The original guest rooms at the lodge were built large to welcome guests who came for long periods in the winter. The 19-inch thick adobe walls meant we didn't hear our neighbor's smoke alarm, when it went off in the night. She apologized when we met her outside in the morning. Large Bathroom! Our bathroom wasn't as updated as most of the lodge rooms, but we had a crazy amount of space. There was a dressing area with dressers and fridge and coffeemaker and a huge closet. Sitting Area I was excited about our sitting area with the corner fireplace. But we hardly had time to make use, since we had friends to visit in Tucson. In the morning, we at least enjoyed coffee with the fireplace! A Quick Visit to Cielos For many years, the lodge didn't have a restaurant. Today the hotel restaurant & bar, attracts lots of travelers and locals. The gated entrance from the parking lot made it clear that Ceilos attracts more than hotel guests. We took a different journey, that took us through the gardens. I loved the old mission-feel, with the bells! Patio Dining It was January, so the beautiful Saltillo-tiled patio was empty. But there was a 4-sided fireplace, so I'm guessing crowds came a little later. It was just 5 pm. Just past the covered part of the patio, I found the restaurant entrance. I didn't disturb the early diners, who were in a different room. But I enjoyed a peek in this space, with rough-hewn beams, colorful planters and curious lighting fixtures. Happy Hour! Don and I only had 30 minutes before heading off to meet friends. But we couldn't miss Happy Hour, with our complimentary margaritas! This is not how the bar looked at 5 pm. It was actually full of guests. (my photo is from morning) Don and I grabbed the only remaining table. Ford Treasury Cookbook Our bartender was a little rushed with the crowds, but he made it over to us and we placed our order. As he dashed off to get our complimentary margaritas, I pulled out my cookbook. Cookbook Encounter! When Luis returned with our food and drink, I didn't waste time. "Luis, do you know if the restaurant serves Banana Chantilly anymore?" Luis was pretty sure they didn't. Before our bartender could escape, I showed him our 1963 cookbook, with recipes from restaurants and hotels all over the U.S. The featured recipe for The Lodge, was the sweet meringue treat. The vintage illustration was from a time, back when the dining room was closed in the summer. Photo Time! Luis was maybe not as impressed with the old book, as some older folks who remember driving around the country in a Ford... (me) But he was game to take a photo with us! Thanks to the guest at a nearby table, who took our photo. She made sure to get some Saguaro cactus art in our photo! Passing the Book Before long the book was being passed around. The other guests were mostly our age. Retired winter travelers, who were curious about the book and the watercolor image. showing an old sign and barbed wire fence. Award Winning Margarita I forgot to take a photo of our margaritas and our guacamole. I stole a photo off the internet and now the image is making me crave a margarita and guac feast! The Cielos Margarita won World Championship Margarita, in 2019! Peaceful Night Don and I returned from our friend meet up, with a box of pizza and salads. It was lovely walking along the glowing pathways, to our casita. I made use of the hotel robe and enjoyed my pizza by the fire! Morning We had a long travel day the next day. I hated leaving without more exploring. What was this big lawn for? Weddings? I wish we could have had a real meal at Cielos. But we had to get on the road. What's Notable? I absolutely love how this hotel feels. Isolated and cozy and safe, as if it were still in the middle of the desert. Now, the 103-room lodge, is an Urban Hacienda, surrounded by neighborhoods and busy streets. I love that the lodge was rescued and renovated. I love the history. (It was even used for air force officer training during WWII! But mostly I loved the quiet cactus gardens and our spacious room with fireplace! I would love to return and spend some time on the restaurant patio and around the pool!
2 Nights at The Adler In November (2023) Don and I spent 2 nights at the Adler Hotel. The cobblestone surrounding the hotel, is a reminder that we were staying right in the middle of Old Town Zurich. No Cars The lack of cars is another indication. Being in a car-free area, also meant that our Uber (from the train station) couldn't deliver us to the door. Totally worth a little walk with luggage! Public House since 1455 The Adler doesn't look that old, but the history goes back hundreds of years. Initially it was a residence, in the 11th century. Before it was a hotel it was a Public House. That sounds mighty proper, if you don't realize Pub is short for Public! I read that by 1504, The Adler had developed a close link between the nobility and government. I guess that means important gentlemen were doing some drinking' at the pub! I also read that painted glass windows were installed. Not for decoration. The painted windows kept outsiders from viewing the conduct within! Surprises on the Building I didn't spot any painted glass when approaching the building, but I was pleasantly surprised as I got closer and my weary eyes began to focus. From a distance the pale colors looked like a blemish... or smudged repairs, on the building. Suddenly my eyes took in all the spires and towers of Old Town Zurich! Surprises on Balconies To the left of the wall mural, there was a line-up of balconies. I believe only 4 of the 52 rooms have balconies. We weren't those lucky guests who had a balcony, decorated wth lights and wrapped packages. I mostly wanted the balcony, with the special blue decoration! A Cow Named Heidi In 1998 a delightful blue cow was added to the lower balcony. Her name is Heidi, which delights me! Heidi is the name of our daughter. Some might not be honored to share a name with a cow. But cows are sort of a symbol of peace & harmony, in Switzerland. And our daughter (with the Swiss name) has Swiss roots on her dad's side. Plus, her maternal grandmother (called "Moo" by many) had a fondness for cows. It all fits! Below Heidi Heidi (and the front of the hotel) faced a little square. The hotel's Suisse Chuchi Restaurant, had quite a few cafe tables set up for dining. The "Fondue Parlor" (as it's called) opened in 1952. It was the first of its kind, when it opened in Old Town, over 7 decades ago. Our Texas blood was too thin for Swiss temps in November, even with wool blankets! Around the Corner Just around the corner we found another Heidi surprise, on the building. This Heidi wasn't out of reach, so I could do a little pose. I gave the sweet cow face a tickle on the chin, before moving a bit further down the side street to the hotel entrance. Nothing Grand The entrance to The Adler wasn't exactly grand, which was fine. But I was disappointed when I couldn't find the "stand up dog bar" (that I'd read about) on the exterior of the building. Where is that fancy doggy fountain that honors all dogs, pets and strays? Once inside the little lobby, we checked in with a very business-like staff member. She let me know that the 4 (slot-like) holes I'd seen near the door, were the remains of the dog fountain. It was ruined and removed after a storm. Stair Adventures We had an elevator to reach our room, but we mostly used the decorated stairs, off the lobby. The granite stairway certainly didn't give me any hints about the hotel's earliest years. I'm guessing this staircase was added with the hotel's reconstruction, in the 1950s. Enjoying the Climb I love a little stair-climbing drama, when staying in a hotel. Creaky or spiraling, grand or hidden. These stairs weren't unusual, but they offered some entertainment. A window on the first landing offered a view of the street below. More Views The rest of the climb gave me glimpses of Old Town Zurich. But these were illustrated views! Besides wall murals, there was framed artwork on the walls to admire. My photo sort of tricks the eye. You can see the sitting area below, but is it painted or real? Imaginary Courtyard When booking online, I studied website photos. The "Courtyard" images seemed a little whimsical and confusing. In person, it was easy to see how 3 walls were painted to create an inside courtyard. The cafe chairs allowed me to actually put myself right into the scene. But sadly, I couldn't put the white kitty in my lap! As we climbed the stairs, the building views changed. A little further up, Don could talk to imaginary people in the windows across the courtyard. He could have... but he didn't. That's the kind of thing I do. Artist, Heinz Blum As we rose higher, (towards the skylight) we could look across at the rooftops and spires. All of this was created by artist, Heinz Blum in 1997. Mr. Blum wasn't the first artist to paint the walls of the Adler Hotel. Self Portrait of Rudolf Koller Rudolf Koller was the first. He scribbled and painted images on the hotel walls, when he was just a tot. Rudolf's father was the innkeeper. The hotel (which housed mostly cattle dealers) was the young boy's home. Koller didn't scribble like most kids. He was an observant and creative child who studied all the cows and horses that stayed in the hotel's stables. As a very young boy, he painted what he observed, on slates and cupboard doors and walls. He is now considered the best Swiss painter of animals and landscape. Lounge Area Many of Koller's paintings are on display, on the walls of the hotel. This comfortable sitting area had many. I should have counted all the cows! The Gotthard Post Out of all Koller's paintings, this one with its action packed scene, is the most famous. It's the only Koller painting in the hotel that is a copy. The original from 1873, is in the Zurich Museum of Art. I want it to be my favorite, but I worry too much for the calf, who might soon be trampled! Surrounded by Cows From Heidi on the balcony to all of Koller's cows inside, I felt like we were staying in a cow themed hotel... in the classiest way. Oh how my mom would have loved this place! We teased my mom because she loved cows so much. She definitely passed down her cow appreciation, to all of her calves! We loved buying cow gifts for Moo! There are fun stories behind... ... Elsie the Cow and the antique print titled, "The Jersey Mother". It was nice to have the sitting area to lounge a bit and take in some of the art. Bahnhof Room? I just have to share a photo of the pristine and boring hall to our room. Where were the old beams and creaky floors? Maybe higher floors revealed more historic features. ? There was a nifty little plaque outside our door, though. I like rooms that have a name along with a number. What/who was Bahnhof? Comfy Room at the Inn Our room wasn't huge, but there was a very traditional and cozy feel to the Bahnhof Room. The textured wall with wood beams made me curious. Old? It looked like our bed was tucked up beneath a wall of icy snow. We were a little amused by the separate comforters. It sort of looked like we each had our own pillowy bed-pad. Don called his "my postage stamp comforter". Mine was comfy and worked just fine... but I'm not 6'2". Pillow Surprises I spotted goodies on the pillows right away. A cute little card with the traditional Swiss Paper Cut design. Lots of cows in the black & white design. We each had a little Bischof Berger "cookie" as well. I do love a sweet surprise. And yes, there was a cow featured on the decorated wrap! The Window There was only one window, but it had a nice view of the courtyard. The window opened and would have been pleasant on a warm evening. Here's photo of the courtyard from below. A few cafes opened up to the shady area. In summer, we could have enjoyed some good people-watching, from our window. Bathroom There's not much to say about the bathroom. It was small and perfectly clean. But I still appreciate having hotel bathrooms, when in Europe. My first memories of hotels in Europe, were all about sharing with strangers... down the hall. Terrifying, to 11-year-old-Beth! Treats in the Room We only had 2 nights at the Adler, so we mostly dined out. However, our 2 little chairs and the windowsill made a nice breakfast spot, one morning. Coffee and sweets from Ass-Bar! Yep, the name's on the cup. I wasn't sure what that meant, but learned later that "Ass-Bar" shops serve day-old and discounted pastries. Hmm? They tasted just fine... since I didn't know that. In the evening, we enjoyed a little Swiss Pinot Noir, on the windowsill! Nice! Desk and Map The narrow desk area was packed with helpful stuff. Tea kettle, phone, charging area and a TV, above the discreet fridge. Above a modern wooden light strip, was a map of Zurich. That was actually pretty handy, since we did a lot of wandering. Not Just Decoration Each guest room displayed a printed map, created by the hotel's mural painter, Heinz Blum. Our map had 2 circles. A statue was circled on ours. The word Bahnhof was circled below the print. Bahnhof!! So that's why our room was named Bahnhof! Each of the 52 guest rooms had its own wall mural that coordinated with the area circled on the map. For 2 nights, I slept right beside the painted arch and statue. Sadly with all our wanderings, we never came upon this Bahnhof scene in person. Wanderings in Old Zurich Below is a slideshow of the lovely little area surrounding our hotel. Besides the quaint buildings, I loved the old water fountains, that offer clean drinking water. And the window shopping was delightful! Limmat River We had one full day for exploring and it was sunny! Just a short walk from our hotel, took us to Limit River. We wandered along the bank, towards Lake Zurich. We warmed up inside a couple times, with a lunch stop at Baur au Lac Hotel and a coffee break, inside the Connelli Circus tent! Adler's Swiss Chuchi After a beautiful day exploring Zurich, Don and I enjoyed our last meal at the hotel. Temps were in the thirties and the cafe tables were empty. We made reservations for 8:00 and headed for the street entrance, which had no line for a change. Notice more Heinz Blum artwork! The multi-leveled cafe was warm and full of happy diners. Smells of cheese filled the cozy space. Luckily I like the smell of cheese. I loved our placemat, with more Swiss paper cut art AND a fondue fork! The cafe was filled with Christmas decorations. The knotty pine walls displayed lots of traditional Swiss goodies. A cuckoo clock right above me! Nutmeg and paprika holders reminded me that I was in Switzerland. Our menu reminded me of some of the books I had as a child. I half expected the red words printed on the linen cover, to read, "Heidi". Our waiter in his red checked shirt was very busy. He took our orders and rushed off, without much chat. Don's order of Pork Curry, came with banana and pineapple. I ordered the traditional fondue with 4 cheeses, white wine, cherry liquor and garlic. It arrived with 2 fondue forks luckily. I needed help! The red fondue pot sat on the burner, keeping the cheese bubbly hot. When I could eat no more, I turned off the burner. Suddenly our waiter arrived and let us know we left the best part in the pot. He took a fork and skillfully scraped the hardened mass off the bottom! It was indeed delicious, but so rich and I was so full. We finished up and headed outside to wander the street a bit, on our last night in Zurich. Before heading back to the hotel entrance, my eyes were drawn to the spotlighted metal design on our hotel's corner. One last surprise! I hadn't noticed it before. Morning Surprise We had to head off for the airport in the early morning. What a sweet treat to look out and see snow. The big wet flakes reminded me of how lucky we were that our one full day for exploring, had been bright and sunny! What's Notable? Our Swiss hotel didn't look like a chalet. It had no view of mountains. The incredible history of the building was hidden behind modern renovations. The staff was more polite and proper, when I would have preferred warm and friendly. But, I loved our stay! I'll always have fond memories of this chocolate milk colored hotel! The charm of the area was beyond what I could have hoped for. The fondue experience will always be a part of what I remember. And despite the no nonsense feel of the renovated building, it was filled with little surprises that delighted me. Koller's cows and Blum's courtyard murals! Our room was comfy and sweet. I hope to return!
Switzerland, Germany or France? Last November, Don and I stayed at Hotel Suisse in Strasbourg. It was the first weekend of the month-long Christmas Market! The hotel's name kept confusing me. We weren't in Switzerland, but our hotel was in Strasbourg and that sounded German. So... our hotel had a Swiss name, but was in France, very near the German border. It had flavors of all 3 countries! 14th Century Residence You'd never guess from this photo that our tidy little hotel, was over 600 years old! The hotel website said the building was originally a residence, in the 14th century. I can't imagine how many facelifts and makeovers this building has experienced. Arriving Don and I arrived in Strasbourg, on a chilly-damp day in November. The hotel was only 1.5 miles from the train station, but we somehow wandered endlessly with our bags. We took in the storybook scenery as we walked. We finally came to a bridge that took us over the River Ill, to Strasbourg's Grande-Ile in the city's historic center. Grande-Ile The historic island felt a little like Venice to me. An escape from cars to an island, surrounded by the main channel of the Ill River and the Faux-Empart Canal. The entire area was declared a UNESCO site in 1988. As a young kid I dreamed of going to Paris. Like most kids I was drawn to the Eiffel Tower. If I'd heard of Strasbourg, (and its Christmas markets) when I was young, I would have wished on every birthday candle! But I only learned of Strasbourg recently. We were booking a spontaneous trip to Paris last Thanksgiving, when photos of the festive Christmas Markets popped up in some travel ads. "What is this magical place!?" I hardly looked for an answer, before I scrambled to add 2 days to our trip! Row Houses Our 2-building hotel, was located at the end of a long series of row houses. It was interesting to study the various shapes and colors, of so many connected buildings. As we approached I could see the hotel's coffee shop, (Cafe Suisse) on the corner. Festive Entrance We passed the cafe and headed for the hotel's decorated entrance, under the awning. I hardly understand these tricky buildings that stand side-by-side. The yellowish building (holding lobby) and the tannish one with the cafe, seemed to be glued together, sharing one wall. Is that what a row house is? More Baffling But the roofs are even more baffling! Look at the dramatically steep roof with the dormer windows, scattered here and there! Those oddly shaped attic windows are actually called "sitting dog windows". I can sort of picture a dog... maybe. But how random these windows seem! Usually you can study windows to count the floors. Are there 6 or 7 stories? Lobby It was nice to escape the chilly day, when we stepped inside the cozy lobby. This cute little stairway didn't lead up to the top floor. Only to a small loft with a sitting area. Sadly it was roped off. Too Early We waited for a bit at the lobby desk, until a young woman rushed over from the cafe. Our room wasn't ready, but the woman offered to hold our luggage, then guided us to the cafe for some complimentary coffee. Cafe Suisse I wish my photo better captured the storybook feel of this sweet cafe. We warmed up at our cozy oasis-table, sandwiched between Aladdin's carpet and the timbered-beamed ceiling... of Cinderella's cottage. While I sipped cappuccino, I studied the delicate decor in the windows and thought of more fairytales. A gingerbread men! Stars and snowflakes... even pretzels! Above the Cafe When our room was ready, we only had one flight to climb. Our room was right above the cafe. We passed some interesting framed prints and stepped into our curiously decorated hall. Actually we had to wait a moment. The maid was still vaccuming. Hints of the Past I was totally entertained as we stood in the hall, on the mod carpet with giant flowers. What was behind that closed off doorway? How many layers of paint? Is that a thick wall, or just an oddly reconstructed wall? Is this the original staircase? Oh, why didn't I just wander up for a moment. Regrets! "Family Superior Room" When we stepped into our room I couldn't have been more pleased. Our corner room was filled with windows! The windows over the radiators looked directly across to Rohan Palace. Box Bay Window? I think that's what they call a bay window that juts out, this way. I loved how the soft curtains framed it. I could step right into the alcove and look down the side street, towards the bridge. Our Glowing Windows From the street in the evening, you could see our windows glowing, above the cafe. It's intriguing to imagine all 25, (totally different) rooms in the hotel. Our room was long and spacious and I loved it. But I'm still curious about the rooms within the roof! I'm sure they're the smallest and most charming rooms. Modern Yet Quaint Our updated modern-sleek room felt very fresh and clean. I liked the calming colors. The curtains added cozy, quaint charm. I'm not a fabric person, but I learned about the Alsatian linen and cotton Kelsch fabrics, used in the hotel. Even the little "Do Not Disturb" notice on the door, was made with Kelsch plaid fabric. The Bath No complaints about the bathroom! The windows brought in lots of light. Well, as much as a drizzly day could offer. The floor and tile work blended well with the room color! 2 Views of Notre-Dame de Strasbourg! I was impressed with the lovely print, propped on a shelf in the bathroom. It was an image of the gorgeous cathedral, just steps away from our hotel. Instead of looking at the print, I could glance out the bathroom window and admire the single spire of the same Gothic beauty! Blending with the Room Don did a nice pose for me, in his nearly matching shirt! He looked like an employee, in a Suisse Hotel uniform. Side By Side Like many European hotels, our King bed was made of 2 beds. Kind of like the row houses, stuck together! Fancy Wall I was pretty delighted with our fancy wall texture behind the vevet-y headboard. As I admired it, I noticed the obvious slant of the ceiling. This photo is not just taken at a jaunty angle. Embossed Wallpaper On my 10th birthday, I remember being in the Ladies Room of a fancy restaurant and touching the velvet softness of flocked wallpaper. Oooo! It was deluxe! 56 years later, the raised design on our room's embossed wallpaper, gave me a similar thrill. No colors and no velvet, but the kid in me was just as tempted to touch the intriguing texture. Hanging Out Despite the Market crowds filling the streets below us, our guest room was very quiet by bedtime and in the morning. Our room was just steps away from markets and restaurants, so it was easy to return and warm up here and there. The room was warm and comfortable, although the velvet "gumdrop stools" weren't ideal for lounging, or sitting at the table. Dining Cafe Suisse served a fabulous breakfast each morning, but it was costly and we weren't hungry enough to make it worthwhile. Instead, we purchased bakery treats and made our own coffee. Au Fond Du Jardin Right next door to our hotel, was a magical little tea shop that we missed out on. The line to get in was endless on Sunday. On Monday, the lavish shop filled with decadent treats, was closed. Macarons Instead So on Monday, after a day out and about in the rain, we had our own tea time. We hurried back with some macarons and made tea! Once again, we appreciated the convenience and the coziness of our room. Christmas Market I don't like crowds and I don't like cold, wet weather. I'm actually not a big fan of shopping, either! But it was impossible not to love it all! It was the Christmas Market that lured us to Strasbourg. So here is a slideshow filled with images of the magical moments we enjoyed, just steps from our hotel. We didn't see the sun once on our 2 day visit, but we were happily distracted by all the colorful decor and delicious smells and friendly folks, wandering the cobblestone streets. Location I can't emphasize enough how nice it was to come and go, without needing tricky transportation. So happy to just use our feet! The convenience of Hotel Suisse was so appreciated. Especially when we returned both nights, so see this glowing entrance. Strasbourg Without Crowds I hardly I took a photo, that didn't have splash of holiday decor. But the traditional Alsatian buildings were plenty festive, without decorations or summer flowers. What a treat to wander the winding streets and take it all in, early in the morning! What's Notable? I'll just repeat myself. Staying at Hotel Suisse was comfortable and cozy. Sleeping in such an historic building, was the icing on the cake! The best part of the hotel was the location. Looking out our windows and seeing the Cathedral and the colorful markets, was even better than I imagined. I don't need to list all the places we walked to. The photos are above!
Yes! I would gladly stay again... for longer! Vestay Montaigne Don and I made a quick decision to spend Thanksgiving in Paris. Sounds decadent, but we grabbed cheap airline tickets and found a reasonably priced hotel on the internet. We booked Hotel Vestay Montaigne for 4 nights and crossed our fingers. Arrival One of the perks, was that our hotel stay came with a complimentary ride from the airport. After 45 minutes our car pulled up to this magnificent door. I hoped our driver hadn't made a mistake. I had not spotted this 2-story entrance, in website photos. Haussmanian Building I did expect this building though. (tall door was to the left) I had spotted the grand building in an internet photo. But I still had fingers crossed. The website had shared very few photos. The site had mentioned that the hotel rooms were located in a "Haussmannian" building in a "typical Parisian refined setting." That certainly sounded intriguing. Mid-19th Century Paris I had to look up Hassmannian. I learned that Baron Haussmann played a big role in the 2+ decade project to reconstruct Paris, in the mid 1800s. Today, his buildings still dominate central Paris. Our hotel (right) was surrounded by them. The buildings looked very similar. Haussmann buildings had strict guidelines. Exteriors were cream colored stone, with shops and restaurants on the ground floor. No taller than 6 stories. It seemed like every building in every direction had the same iron balconies and mansard roofs. I learned later that Medievil neighborhoods had to be removed to create these lovely boulevards and buildings. Sad to think about. Second or Third? The 6 Vestay hotel rooms were all located on the "second" floor. In the U.S. we call it the third floor. The arrow points to our room. The ground floor space in Haussmann buildings, was reserved for businesses. First floor was often used for storage. Second floor was considered the most desirable... the Noble Floor. Yay for us! Entrances There were so many impressive doorways in the area. I loved the smiling face above another nearby door. The face above our tall door, was less cheery. As we plugged in the code to open the door, her shifty eyes kept an eye out for suspicious characters. At least that's how I read her expression! Heading In! I was eager to step inside! Luckily the heavy door wasn't really 2-stories tall. The decorated arch around our door, made it look twice as large. The window below the arch was actually a window into the floor above. Once inside we could see couldn't see the window above the door. But we could see a Doric columns and large mirrors! We approached another set of doors and punched in another code. This area near the elevator and stairway, also had a large mirror. On our way out later in the evening, we paused in front of that large mirror. We let it help us with what I call an "Old People Selfie". Don't think we'll frame this. Up the Red Carpet For most of our stay we used the staircase to reach our room. If you look to the right of the lovely window, you can see the narrow doors to the elevator. Narrow Stairs The view looking up 6 flights, was eerie and dramatic. I wondered about the Parisians who climbed these steps in the 1800s. I climbed to the top just once, to take this photo. I paused to catch my breath and wonder about the attic rooms tucked into the mansard roof. The top floor was usually reserved for servants or lower class. I'll bet they were the fittest residents in the building, with daily climbs! Modern Elevator I'm not sure when the elevator was added, but the modern addition still seemed mighty old to me. There wasn't room for Don and me plus luggage, so Don rode up. I happily took the stairs and hoped he wouldn't get stuck. We always took the stairs after that. Room 14 The walls and floor in the stairwell were a little worn. But when reached the Vestay entrance on the "second" floor, (and punched another code) we found an immaculate hallway, with gray doors and red carpet. We were early for check in, but one of the very busy housekeepers, (who spoke English) said our room was ready. There are only 6 rooms, so I'm not sure about these high numbers? Our Host Frederick (the owner, I believe) had just arrived and was happy to show us to our room. The room was small, but clean and charming. Modern I usually love old and original, over sleek and modern. But Don and I had recently dealt with our first Covid illness. We were all about comfort. The heavenly bed and spotless surroundings were very welcoming. Frederick pointed out the "kitchen corner". The fridge held all the makings for our continental breakfast. (bread, meat, cheese, juice) He told us it would be replenished daily. The dishes and glassware were lovely! Bathing The bathroom was also small, (no bubble baths) but quite luxurious. There was a heated towel rack and an illuminated make up mirror. The towels, robes and slippers were cozy soft. View! As soon as Frederick left us, I pulled back the sheers to reveal our view! We knew not to expect the Eiffel Tower or Arch de Triumph. But I was thrilled to see our lovely city view. The building across, looked very much like ours! The November weather was chilly, but I had to open the doors! Rear Window I could easily see activity in the doors directly across. I felt like a spying Jimmy Steward, in Rear Window. I was more curious about who might live or work behind the tiny windows at the very top! On the Balcony There was just enough room for a cafe table and 2 chairs on the balcony. There was lots of pedestrian activity to watch below. I could also study the businesses near the street. We ended up dining at Maitre Pierre, after studying the red awning. Coffee and Tea Jet lag kept us from rising too early in the mornings. I needed a few of these small cups of coffee after my showers! After dinner one evening, I was determined to brave the cold and have some tea outside. The street never got overly active at night, but it was fun watching friends and small groups traveling here and there... voices and footsteps echoing off the buildings. Wine Time We made a lot more use of our inside table. Our table by the window was perfect for a glass of wine, purchased from a wine shop around the corner. The owner was kind enough to steer us towards the best of the cheap! Lunch Another day we walked to a nearby deli called Pret. We bought sandwiches and enjoyed them in the room, on flowered china. Don and I so rarely stay at a hotel more than a night or two. It was a treat to have 4 nights, with time to dine out and explore and still have some relaxing time in our cozy room. People Encounters? A tiny part of me missed being in a traditional hotel. A hotel with a lobby, restaurant and bar, offers more opportunity for memorable people encounters... or just good people watching. We never saw another guest on our floor. We did however enjoy peeking in on the activity that took place in the salon that occupied the "first" floor. At night, we could spot a little beautification happening, when we peered into the well lit windows from below. On every trip I took up or down the stairs, I paused on the first floor to peek in the (wide open) door. So many sounds and smells to absorb in that busy, happy place! There was always laughter and sometimes music, along with sounds of blowdryers. I'm disappointed with myself that I didn't just step inside and inquire about an appointment, just to take in the festive vibe. Golden Triangle One of the best selling points of Vestay Montaigne, was the location. Except for an Uber ride to Montmarte, Don and I did all our exploring on foot. I'd never heard the term, but our hotel was in the middle of the Golden Triangle. The Triangle is described as an upper-crust neighborhood, sitting within 3 famous boulevards. The snooty notion didn't sell me, but the walkability did! Champs-Elysees I'm not really about high end boutique shopping, but I loved being such a short walk from the most famous of the 3 boulevards. The Champs-Elysees was already festive and decorated, when we arrived in mid November. The Shops and Sights Below are some of things we spotted on and around Champs-Elysees. Only window shopping for me! Heading Towards the Seine The first evening of our stay, we left our hotel and headed on Avenue George V, in the other direction. We lucked out with a sunset view of the Eiffel Tower. The sight was an energizing lift to these worn travelers. We'd been awake for 24 hours and were still a bit weary from Covid. Sights Not Far From the Seine From our hotel, were able to easily reach all these places with our easy wandering. I couldn't resist snapping photos of tourists posing with the Eiffel Tower... or bridal couples near the river. Last Evening By the 4th night, Don and I were finally feeling rested. Energy was returning and yet it was time to go! We hadn't "done it all", but we'd done plenty. It was pretty much the perfect short stay for a spontaneous trip! What's Notable? The Vestay Montaigne was so incredibly comfortable and luxurious. The sweet housekeeping staff (working 10-2) made us feel like we were being taken care of! For around $275. a night, we stayed in a lovely hotel, located in an ideal part of Paris. We also got the experience of staying an historic Haussmann "flat". Which made it fun to imagine what Paris was was like, 150 years ago I would easily book again... although I'd ask for their largest room!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
December 2023
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