Bisbee, Arizona in May 2014 We stayed here on the third to last night of our TX-CA-TX road trip. Out of our 15 different accommodations, I think I may have the fondest memories from our night at the Shady Dell! A Desert Trailer Park When we arrived at this retro retreat just outside the old mining town of Bisbee, all was very quiet. Luckily there was a note with instructions for us, taped to the screened door of the office. 1927 We stepped inside the gates and began exploring. It was fun imagining this place in 1927. That's when it first opened as a trailer park and campground, for weary auto travelers on the famous Highway 80. Ghost Trailer Park There was no one at Dot's Diner and no one in the phone booth. There was no one watching movies on the Astroturf which wasn't a surprise. Accommodations We crunched along the gravel pathways, peeking at all 9 vintage trailers. There was a festive 1947 Tiki Bus with Polynesian flare. I liked the 1957 "Airfloat" with the picket fence. Our 38-Foot Chris Craft Yacht Our wonderful little get-away awaited us under a shady roof, tucked beside a dense wall of rustling bamboo. "Harbie" the chipmunk captain held a bouquet of flowers and two frowning tiki carvings greeted at the pathway. Little Friend We also spotted a little green friend. He blinked at us, as we toted our bags towards the wooden dock, that surrounded our pleasure boat! Music We heard some sweet tunes as we stepped on the rear lounge area of the boat. When Don opened the doors with green stained glass, the swing music grew louder, coming from a vintage radio. Nice touch from our mystery hosts. Packed with Style What a treat! Now only would we be sleeping on a yacht, but the whole interior was saturated with fun props, art and ship memorabilia! The swooping leopard skin chairs and 1940's "buffet" felt very Hollywood. Everything else was delightfully nautical from lamps to framed art. Hats Provided! I get so childishly giddy over themed accommodations that I often pack my own costumes. I didn't need to here. They had a couple of captains hats as well as sailor caps at the ready! The Galley Down a few steps at the center of the boat was the fully equipped galley. The china had little anchors, the vintage coffee pot was ready to go. There was even a small refrigerator with a complimentary bottle of champagne. The dining area was cozy with a wonderful map covered table. There was a nice wooden ship with a clock and yet another little mascot to welcome us aboard. This topless little sea nymph was also keeping guard over her shell collection. Cozy V-Berth A few steps up, into the bow of the boat, we had a triangular bed and lots more vintage décor. There was a skylight and two portholes, a china flamingo and a light-up seashell. The door had a peephole in the shape of an anchor! The Bathroom Don is a foot taller than me and could not stand up in our bathroom. But he was at least feeling at home seeing a bottle of Old Spice and even a golden razor! The porthole looked out at the waving bamboo. We had no shower, but there was an option for that down at the washhouse. Starting the Evening The weather was perfect and we were eager to settle into the evening on our ship. First we hiked to the gazebo in search of ice and met a small gathering at the picnic table. (So we were not alone) They were an odd, but friendly bunch, wearing mostly vintage clothes. A man wearing a 1940's suit insisted we use some of their ice. We chatted as he reached for the half melted bag of ice. His eyebrows raised to learn we were in the yacht. "Did you know it's haunted?" As he poured ice into my container I had to point out to him that the leaky bag was drenching his wingtip shoe. He was unfazed... and Don and I determined they were all ghosts as we headed back to our boat. Drinks on the Dock We decided to save champagne for another day and enjoyed some tiki cocktails instead. We made use of the dock seating first and had a good time chuckling over collections of old cruise brochures. We read through the captain's log, which was really a guest book and laughed at the write ups from past visitors. These people all seemed like us... having a silly old time. New Area to Enjoy Next we moved to the open area at the rear of the boat. There was a nice rolling cocktail cart and a padded bench. We flipped through quite the collection of albums, all island themed... from Don Ho to Harry Belafonte's Calypso. Dancing Time! Don put "Hawaii Calls" on the turntable and we tried out a few dance moves. Our dance skills are pretty lame, so we're lucky we didn't break a lamp or any limbs. After a few amusing minutes we turned to more low key activities. Books and Games We were determined to make use of every space and every goody that these fine owners had enthusiastically collected. I can't believe we didn't get to meet them. I love the passion they have for this place. And I love that they trusted us to enjoy without destroying them! There was so much to enjoy from the old radio to the Sunken Treasure game. The reading material was pretty tempting. If we'd had a couple days I could have read "A Girl in Every Port" or "Sails and Whales". Dinner in the Galley Our light dinner of bread, fruit and cheese, on our anchor plates... on the map table, was perfect! We played a game or 2 and headed off to bed with a balmy breeze blowing through the portholes. Night Luckily we had no ghost happenings in the night. It was a little eerie, I'll admit. It was the night before the full moon and the winds picked up, rustling the bamboo dramatically. And the creepy thing I didn't mention earlier, is that on the other side of the bamboo, just steps away from our boat, was an old cemetery. Now if that wasn't the perfect set-up for a ghost encounter, I don't know what would be. What's Notable? I think the absence of hosts or staff added to fantasy of this silly overnight boat adventure! It really did feel a little like we were in an episode of Gilligan's Island! Oddly though, I felt like I knew our hosts the whole time. They obviously have a great sense of humor and even better sense of playful fun... with their careful attention to detail when it comes to decorating. I would love to return and stay in every trailer and hang out with some of the others around the picnic table! Another time!
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Bisbee, Arizona in May 2014 Don and I had never been to this small town, but we arrived on the last leg of our 4-week road trip. At the Inn, we were right at the foot of Castle Rock and just a few steps from downtown Old Bisbee. Oldest Wood Structure This great, red and green wooden structure was built in 1895 as a boarding house for the local miners. It remained a boarding house into the 1940's. The lower level, with office and gift shop, was then a dirt crawl space. The 2 levels above housed miners who may have relaxed on the porches on summer evenings long ago. It was actually a soldier, not a miner who years ago sat on that veranda cleaning his gun when it accidently went off. It killed a woman walking on the street below and some guests claim to have seen her ghost. If you look carefully to your left, you might see the ghost image of the man with his rifle. But if you look even closer...it's actually a young man and his guitar. Arriving I grinned as we crossed the bridge, over a dry creek bed towards the battered red door. You could tell this place was going to be fun when the large rusty bells clanked and announced our arrival. If we'd gone left, we could have stepped into sort of a sun room that had coffee and sometimes breakfast treats. (It doesn't claim to be a B&B) But we turned right into the office, which had a cave-like feel. Not because it was once a dirty crawl space under the building, but because you could feel the odd, cool air coming from the Apache Springs Well that was right behind Cheryl. Cheryl Cheryl, who checked us in said a few years ago, the son of a previous owner stopped in town for a visit. He shared memories of being a little boy and exploring under the building, where a few boards covered the well. The Well And here is the well, with neon sign and ladder behind the desk. In 1877, Apache Indians showed a natural spring to some miners and a mine shaft was built on site. When the spring flowed into the shaft, it became a well. They built the boarding house right over the well and the copper mine moved elsewhere. Swimming? We spoke with the owner, Chris (who had an awesome New Zealand accent) and he said a few years ago some young women asked if they could take a swim. The girls lasted only a minute in the icy, dark water. Exploring There were some great nooks and crannies for hanging out. Up a set of stairs we found an added room with TV, puzzles, magazines and posters. This would have been a teenager's dream...in the '70's. There was another cozy area around a wood burning stove. This was no Hilton lounge, but you had to love the homey feel. Love a Porch! Our room, #21 was on the first level overlooking the street. There were Adirondack chairs and a porch swing, with a view of Castel Rock. Owner, Chris has kept quite a bit of the quirky décor from when he bought the place 5 years ago. "It had been pretty much a party house since it was inherited." The owners who bought in the 1980's had decorated the rooms with some pretty unique collections in of art and doodads. Chris warned with a chuckle, "I don't take any responsibility for any of the quirky décor in the rooms." He said the reputation of the place was built on the crazy stuff. Last Chance Last Chance was the name of our room. It was quite a doozie with the Asian theme! We opened the screened door first, then the deluxe pink and white door... with complicated drapes. Four Bathroom Photos! I'm sure I have never shared 4 bathroom photos in the blog, but this bathroom cracked me up. It was large enough to have a wooden chair and full tub. And the sink area could have held a number of appliances. I just had to look in those cabinets and of course...there were more Asian themed knick knacks! What's Notable? I'll always remember the kookiness of this quiet little place across from Castle Rock. It's really like no other historic hotel I've visited. If we'd had more time, I would have used the veranda more, or explored the gardens behind the hotel. It was very peaceful for us, but I imagine on a weekend we could have met up with some unique travelers at a place like this! We'll have to return.
Traveling Through Arizona On Mother's Day last May, Don and I arrived at the Hotel Congress towards the end of our month-long road trip. We were curious to find out about this 95 year hotel as well as the city itself. Right off the bat, we were impressed with the city. It was easy to get around and find the hotel.But what would this hotel be like? I'd never stayed in a hotel that called itself an urban, historic, rock' n' roll hotel. Heading In Just inside the door, we were greeted with a great mixture of old and new. To our right was the retro "Hive Salon" with old barber chairs and hairdryers. Above the shiny tile floors, the walls were covered with colorful, southwestern artwork, added in the 1980's. The Lobby I loved the wooden phone booths (with working phones) near the front desk! When we checked in we were given real keys instead of little cards, which means I can find my key! And when we left the hotel a couple times, we had the retro fun (inconvenience to some) of having our keys held in their own little wooden slot, behind the desk. I love old hotels. Heading up Stairs There were no elevators in this 3-story hotel, but we were getting used to lugging our bags up stairs. Most of the hotels we'd already visited on our trip, had no elevators. There was an interesting vibe, to the eclectic lobby crowd. That was expected, since the hotel's Club Congress is recognized as one of the top ten nightclubs in the country. I think the Mother's Day Holiday definitely tamed the crowds during our stay. Quite the Table I've never seen a coffee table quite like this one! My sister and I actually took our Ouija Board to a "haunted hotel" once. I wish she'd been with me! We didn't conjure up any spirits, but if only I'd thought to bring along a pointer for this table, we could have had a little fun with Hotel Congress ghosts.
No Dillinger Ghosts Here We didn't meet up with the ghost of John Dillinger, but we saw his face. He was captured in the hotel in 1934, but he was eventually killed in Chicago after escaping from jail in Indiana. I'm sure there are other ghosts, hanging out. Most old hotels like to flaunt their ghost stories. I no longer pay much attention. Pennies in the Cafe
Up the Stairs The second story was dimly lit, but brightened with more colorful painting and fun archways.
There was a small sitting are for guests not far from our room. Room 211 I actually loved out little room. The website had "warned" that some city slickers might feel slighted that the 40 guestrooms have no TVs. But hey, they had an old radio! It also reminded guests that earplugs were available and no refunds would be given for noise. We weren't too worried. We reserved one of the quieter rooms and it was a Sunday. But we were fully prepared for noise since the train tracks were nearby and the Club downstairs had nightly entertainment. Room with a View Back in our room's little alcove near the desk, we had a window with a heavy wood frame and frosted glass. I managed to open the clumsy thing and let in some of the wonderful weather that must have been delivered for Mother's Day. What a surprise to suddenly see a courtyard with a desert scene painted on the brick wall. I could even catch a glimpse of the iconic Hotel Congress sign. What a great little Urban Oasis right out our window...or around down the hall if we used the door. Hello Operator? I was very excited about the 1930's vintage phone on the dresser. I made a call to the front desk so I could use the thing. The iron bed frame, vintage bedspread and darkened flowered carpet could have been a bit too much for some. But it was all clean and that's all I ask! Plus rooms start at $89. That's pretty good for a hotel that has history and entertainment! The Bathroom The bathroom wasn't the grandest, with just a shower. But again, it was clean and I loved the black and white tile. The basin was original, but a new spout and handle was installed on the right, with a clever soap dish where the hot water had been. Club Congress This just shows a small corner of the festive old bar and the large stage and dance area. If we'd come another month we could have participated in the Whiskey Weekend or The Underwear Party! I'm sure I would have had bigger stories to tell. The Tap Room We were headed out for dinner soon, so we didn't have time to take in the Congress festivities. However we just had to check out the original hotel bar since 1919, The Tap room. This tiny bar with a few booths was cozy and festive, but it was definitely a local's hangout. That usually appeals to us, but these people didn't look too welcoming of tourists. I even spotted a guy with a holster and gun. Different laws in Arizona. However when we heard about "Tiger" we knew we would have to come back! Tiger's Tap Room The only way to meet Tiger was to come back after we checked out at 11 the next morning. Tiger has been running the bar since 1959 and he's too weary for the night crowd. He works and early shift. Tiger was a hoot with stories from long ago to his current life. While I sipped my orange juice, we swapped stories about our years both growing up in Iowa. He then pulled out photos of when the staff gave him surprise 80th birthday party and had "Tiger" added to the "Tap Room" neon sign. He pointed out the western artwork hanging near the ceiling and told us about the artist who contributed those in the '30's and '40's in exchange for drinks. New Friends The man seated next to us, kindly took our photo behind the bar. Then the kind photographer mentioned, in an almost hushed, proper way, that a stranger had offered to buy him a drink the other day. He was feeling as though he should pay it forward and buy us a drink. It was before noon and I hardly wanted a drink, but we took him up on the offer and split a Bloody Mary. By the time we headed out we were feeling pretty pleased about our surprise people encounter. It was the perfect way to end our stay. What's Notable? To me the hotel was warm and inviting all by itself. I loved the intentional preservation of the past and the modern touches with art and style. Initially I didn't feel very welcome by the people. The desk staff was young and a tiny bit aloof. I felt like I needed a few piercings or tattoos and a few less wrinkles to fit in better. But I'm used to feeling like that in Austin. (Tucson felt like a baby Austin to me) But after spending an hour with Tiger and even our nice fellow at the bar, I felt different. It's always fun to have someone to say good-by to when you leave!
Harvey House Hotel There are very few Harvey House Hotels left, so Don and I were pretty excited to finally stay at one. This was a beauty and it was right along Route 66. It exceeded our expectations. What's a Harvey House? You can watch this movie and get a musical (and sort of silly) version of the history. Or Google Fred Harvey and learn about the man who began promoting tourism in the wild west in the late 1800's, with his hotels and restaurants along the Santa Fe Railway. A year ago, I only had a vague idea of the Harvey Girls who wore starched, white aprons and efficiently served delicious meals to diners traveling by train. It was a chat with a fellow traveler in Colorado last summer, that got us interested in this Winslow hotel. His description put it high on our hotel list. Two Cool Things 1- The Harvey Company hired a woman in 1930 to design La Posada! Mary Colter used the culture and history of the region to design the hotel, gardens and even furniture. Her work inspired the style known as Pueblo Deco. 2- This amazing building was rescued from destruction in 1997. It has been restored into a magical hotel/restaurant/museum and private residence by owners, Allen Affeldt and Tina Mion. Outside This hotel may not have a pool, spa and fitness room, but I'd rather enjoy the numerous sitting areas and pathways on the grounds. We seemed to have the entire grounds to ourselves. Peaceful... There are cozy garden areas in the front, with bubbling fountains, flowers, sculptures and accents with stone and tile. In the back, there's a spacious lawn with Adirondack chairs and croquet... and for some reason, a maze with bales of hay. It's all very peaceful and relaxing... until the trains rumble by! I love the sound of trains. Room 100 We stayed in the James Cagney room. You can see the framed photo and write up near the door. All the rooms are named for celebrities of some kind, since many well known stars have stayed here in the past. Clark Gable, Jimmy Stewart and even Shirley Temple were guests long ago and have rooms named for them. I had to laugh when I saw one room named for The Double Mint Twins. I remember their gum commercials in the 1960's. I thought that was a little hotel humor (And you can spot quirky humor here and there in the hotel) but when I read the bio, I learned the twins were actually friends of the owners. Our Cozy Room Our cozy corner room was beautifully decorated with woven rugs, baskets, tile and arches. Our bed was comfy and the handcrafted headboard seemed to be Navajo inspired. Mirrors and Tile Even the bath and dressing areas were filled with brightly colored tiles and furniture. The mirrors made the cozy space seem larger, but they also distracted a bit. I almost tripped a few times before remembering to step up, into the bathroom. Exploring You could get lost wandering all the halls. There was so much to take in, it sort of boggled my brain. I should have just concentrated on floors because that would have been enough entertainment. So many kinds of floors! I loved the floortile pattern in this blanket-warmed hall. So Many Rooms This ballroom was my favorite. The curvy beams were covered with brightly painted designs. Curious, antiques were mixed with colorful modern wall art. Best of all there were cozy spots inviting guests to sit and stay a while! Stay & Play I wish we'd had more time! There were shelves of interesting books, with soft leather chairs and comfy rockers nearby. Spacious family tables and intimate tables for two, held board games, begging to be played. And how about this intriguing adult sized table with whimsical building shapes! And More Rooms This grand room was filled with more lounging areas. The walls were covered in bold and often humorous artwork, created by owner Tina Minon. During the evening a local musician filled the echoing space with the sound of his acoustic guitar. Again, I wish we'd had more time so we could have enjoyed the music... while moving giant chess pieces on one of the large game tables. Front of Back? The south side of the hotel looked out towards the railroad tracks. It was once the main entrance, since most travelers arrived by train. The walkway lead up to a set of rocking chairs, just perfect for watching the trains come and go. Trains and a Sunset Don and I watched the sunset and chatted with a couple from Iowa. You have to sort of wonder about the other guests who come to stay. Winslow isn't a big destination for most people and it's not exactly on the way to anywhere. And what did we learn? Almost every time we talk to other travelers we end up adding to our list of places to stop or explore. As it turns out, our Iowa friends were not really very interesting at all. They recommended a Motel 6 in Flagstaff. Who knows how they ended up at La Posada. But they were nice enough...and hey, they took our picture. Besides, our "Must Go There!" list is too long. Sigh! I love sunsets. And I love trains. I love enjoying both at the same time. Interesting Chat After sunset, we stopped in the Martini Lounge and had an interesting conversation with the Cameron...who made me a Turquoise Margarita which matched my shirt. Cameron not only grew up in Winslow, but remembered the old hotel from his childhood when his father was a conductor for Santa Fe Railroad. When Cameron was a child, the hotel was gutted and only a portion was in use, as offices for the railroad. He remembers getting in trouble for sneaking off to explore. He had hoped to become the 6th generation in his family to become a conductor for Santa Fe. But his dreams ended, when he found out he was colorblind. Dinner in the Turquoise Room This is the view we had from our round booth in the Turquoise Room. Not only could we sit back and enjoy the charm of the old dining room, but we could see the lights of passing trains through the windows. Our dinner was fabulous and I'll save those details for the dining blog. Our Harvey Girl I was mighty pleased that our server, Julie wore a black skirt and white apron. She even took time to pose with me, even though it was getting late and she had to get up early to teach her math students in the local high school the next day. For that reason, I didn't gripe about details, like "Where's your bow-tie?" or "Why is your apron white?" You see, back when La Posada first opened, Mary Colter insisted the white and black uniform was too severe. She insisted the Harvey Girls wear colorful desert themed aprons with cacti and sombreros and donkeys. La Posada Harvey Girls were very festive! What's Notable? I'll remember this hotel as an oasis, far from the city and usual tourists. I wish we could have met the owners/hosts, because they must be a mighty interesting pair. Their respect for history and passion for art was so whimsically intermingled in every nook and cranny of the hotel! I loved the quiet, peaceful atmosphere, but I would love to visit during the busy season as well. I have no complaints, but only one suggestion. They should get someone to recreate those desert aprons and sell them in the gift shop. I'd buy one!
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Ninety Notable
Nights My New Year's Resolution for 2014 was to start documenting some of the memorable overnights I've had in some very odd and curious motels and hotels. Like the adventures in my Dining Blog, I have learned to enjoy the surprises that happen when you step out of the comfort zone, far away from the well-known chains. I began with a few entries recalling my very first home away from home memories from my youth. Then, I started sharing about some of the quirky and unforgettable motels, hotels and inns that my husband and I have discovered in recent years. The best part about this challenge was making some lists with Don and getting on the road in search of new overnight adventures. I gave myself a 2-year goal to write up 90 stories and the goal was met. Now we just keep on adding! Archives
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